Mercedes Restaurant, a name synonymous with authentic Spanish cuisine in Tampa, holds a unique place in the city’s culinary history. Billing itself as Tampa’s only Spanish restaurant serving fine food cafeteria style, the original Mercedes Restaurant, or simply “mercedes restaurant” as locals fondly remember it, opened its doors in 1937. Founded by the entrepreneurial Henry Hernandez, the establishment’s initial iteration was quite different – a barbershop combined with a humble hamburger stand. However, the burgeoning cigar factory industry in Ybor City would soon shape its destiny.
The influx of cigar factory workers craving hearty, home-style meals prompted Hernandez to transform his venture. Drawing upon cherished family recipes, Mercedes Restaurant evolved into a beloved eatery. Henry himself, alongside his wife Mercedes – the restaurant’s namesake – became the heart and soul of the kitchen. The menu featured an array of traditional Spanish dishes, many passed down through generations. In 1954, recognizing its growing popularity, Mercedes Restaurant expanded, adding a formal dining room adjacent to the cafeteria. This new space was adorned with vibrant paintings of bullfighters, creating an immersive Spanish atmosphere.
The restaurant quickly became a local favorite. While their Spanish bean soup was legendary and often cited as the “go-to” dish, Mercedes Restaurant was equally celebrated for its diverse menu of Spanish comfort food. Patrons delighted in ropa vieja, the savory shredded beef dish, alongside baked boliche, flavorful black beans and yellow rice, and even spaghetti, showcasing the restaurant’s adaptability and broad appeal. Portions were famously generous, and remarkably, all these culinary delights were available for around just $2 in the 1970s. Even Steve Otto, the Tampa Tribune’s respected food critic, lauded Mercedes Restaurant with a glowing four-star review in 1977, solidifying its reputation as a top dining destination. Beyond the main dining room, a smaller snack shop catered to the neighborhood with quick bites, including the quintessential Cuban sandwiches and delectable crabmeat turnovers, also known locally as deviled crab.
Henry and Mercedes Hernandez lived above their thriving restaurant in a studio apartment until their well-deserved retirement in 1969. Their son, Charles, then stepped in to carry on the family legacy. However, the landscape of Ybor City was changing. The construction of Interstate 4 in the mid-1960s presented a significant challenge, effectively severing Mercedes Restaurant from the southern part of Ybor City. The imposing interstate wall stood a mere half-block away, impacting accessibility and foot traffic. In 1973, a fire temporarily closed the restaurant, but demonstrating resilience, it reopened soon after. Tragically, another, more devastating fire gutted the building in 1980. Records indicate that Mercedes Restaurant did not reopen at its original Ybor City location following this second fire, marking the end of an era at that site. Sadly, 1980 also brought the passing of founder Henry Hernandez. While the original property where Mercedes Restaurant once stood and nourished countless Ybor City residents is now a vacant lot, the memory of this beloved “mercedes restaurant” endures. A testament to the area’s history, the fire-prevention water tank from the former Perfecto Garcia cigar factory still stands atop a nearby building undergoing rehabilitation, a silent witness to the past vibrancy of Ybor City and the legacy of Mercedes Restaurant. The cigar factory workers from Perfecto Garcia, which opened in 1914, and their colleagues from the J. C. Newman Cigar factory “El Reloj” in the same neighborhood, remained loyal customers of Mercedes Restaurant throughout its golden years, further cementing its integral role in the community.
